Part of the Earth - Part of the Water

Teslin has one of the largest Native populations in Yukon Territory, so our first stop was at the Teslin Tlingit Heritage Centre.  What caught our attention immediately was the row of totem poles along the entryway.

I learned that each one represents one of the tribes and one of the elements.  There is the eagle (air), frog (water), wolf (land),  beaver (water) and raven (air). We saw a video that showed the dedication ceremony and watched as the various tribes raised their totem.  It reminded me of a barn razing.  The narration proclaimed, "We are here. We take our stand." That epitomizes the deep meaning of the creation of this heritage center.

From the literature I learned that the first non-Natives to arrive in Teslin came in the 1890's with the gold rush.  In 1905 the Hudson Bay Company had a trading post in Teslin but it was not a year-round settlement until the 1940's.  Missionaries arrived of course, and in the 1930's the Russian Orthodox gave competition to the Roman Catholics.  Prayers to God replaced the prayers to nature, and the way of life for the Tlingits started to change. The advent of the Alaska Highway brought 35,000 troops into the area almost overnight.  They bulldozed trees and cut roads through the ancient lands. The Indians' traditional life was changed and the economy of the indigenous people disappeared.  It is said that the local people reacted with bewildered acceptance.  The government started sending all the 6 and 7 year old children to boarding school.  About that same time they allowed the First Nation people into the bars.  For years the Tlingit people have felt overpowered by the government. One Native woman said, "It was too much loss too fast." 

The video told the story of how traditionally the Tlingit people were in control of their lives and followed the cycles of the seasons.  "They were part of the of the earth and part of the water." "They were in touch with nature and in touch with themselves."  It was not until the 1970's that the Tlingits began a campaign for self government. At the end of the video there were words of their new cultural regeneration, to reclaim and revive the Tlingit way of life. "Once again we are in charge of our own destiny in the great circle of life."

The clan, animals, masks and stories are all very important to the Tlingit culture.  The Tlingit hostess told me that they believe that where they put their totem pole, they put their pride.

 

In the history of Teslin one man stands out.  George Johnson was a Tlingit Indian (1884-1982) and an entrepreneur ahead of his time. He was known for his trapping and his success as a fur trader.  He is also known for his photography.  The George Johnson Museum displays many pictures he took between 1910 and 1940 showing the life of the inland Tlingit people of Teslin and Atlin.  One of the unique stories of his life is his purchase of a 1928 Chevrolet when there were no roads in Teslin.  His car was ferried 293 miles from Whitehorse via the Yukon and Teslin rivers.  He and his friends promptly constructed a three mile stretch of road for his "Teslin Taxi".  He charged people 25 cents per mile for a ride.  In the winter he put chains on the car and drove it on the frozen lake.  His Chevy is now displayed at the museum. 

I left Teslin with the words from the video on my mind ... "part of the earth and part of the water" ... "in touch with nature and in touch with themselves."

The past three years of RV travel have brought me closer to nature than I have been since my childhood.  As an adult I have found that our modern world is so full of distractions that we often need to go away to find ourselves. My meditation practice served that purpose for years. Now I am out in nature alot.  I enjoy just sitting and soaking up the beauty and the stillness it offers. 

Once when I was sitting outside I called my daughter Cathy. When she asked me what I was doing, I replied "Watching a pine tree grow".  I know that sounds silly, but that sense of stillness and patience and awe is what puts me in touch with myself and the Mystery we call life.