We took the Alaska Highway out of Haines Junction, heading north. It was an overcast day, but we still got glimpses of the mountain peaks in the Kluane Range. Somewhere around Bear Creek Summit, 3,294 feet, we spotted two young black bears running out of the woods and we stopped and watched as they crossed the road behind us. They were very nonchalant as they strolled across the highway. They must know that the traffic will stop for them.
Kluane Lake, YT
The highway took us past many beautiful lakes and creeks and eventually we came to the viewpoint overlooking Kluane Lake's Horseshoe Bay, at the southern end of the lake. We drove along it's western shore for a long time. This is the largest lake in the Yukon Territory and covers approximately 154 square miles. For about half the distance along the lake we enjoyed new highway. Then, at Destruction Bay things changed and we started experiencing the infamous frost heaves of the Alaska Highway. You can read about it, and hear about it, but you have to drive it to believe it. It was tricky driving even at 20-30 mph!
Lake Creek Yukon Government Campground
After just so many miles, David had to get off the highway, so he turned into Lake Creek Campground. What a relief to stop and be still. That night the temperature dropped to the low 30's and we had to put on an extra blanket to keep warm. In the morning we were happy to have our dependable furnace. We turn it on and then crawl back under the covers until the RV warms up enough to get up and fix a cup of coffee.
Pickhandle Lake, YT
That morning there was snow in the creek beds and a nip in the air, but the sun was up and we were ready to take on the highway again. About five minutes out of camp plans changed, and we stopped at Pickhandle Lake which is right beside the highway. The Milepost says that there is good fishing there, so David had to try his luck. The fish were jumping and he was tempted to put his Pack Canoe in the water. However, there were so many cars pulling in to look around and take photos that we decided to move on and hopefully find a more private lake. There were two trumpeter swans in the lake that would have been fun to paddle to... but.... next time maybe.
There were informative panals at Pickhandle Lake that explained that for thousands of years this lake was a trading place for several First Nations People. Trade networks linked people from the coast with people from the interior. Fish oil and European goods from the coast were traded for furs, birch bark and copper from the interior. It is hard to imagine how the first Nation People moved through this rugged land without a vehicle or even a road.
The Elders say, "To survive we had to travel". So the Kluane and the White River people walked or snow-shoed, often using dogs to pack their goods before prospectors introduced horses in the 1890's. The Alaska Highway that we are travelling on was not cut through until the 1940's... so who am I to complain about the ruts and potholes?
The weather had changed, but the condition of the highway hadn't. The damaged roads were often marked by signs or orange flags, but not always. When the center line looked like ribbons fluttering in the wind and there were skid marks on the pavement, I knew to slow down! The driving was stressful, so we decided to made this another short day.
This time we pulled in Snag Junction Yukon government campground. Snag is now an abandoned airfield and Indian village, whose claim to fame is the lowest recorded temperature in Canada, -81.4 on February 3, 1947! For us, Snag Junction was a much needed break from driving. We found a campsite right next to Snag Lake, and settled in.
There is nothing quite as relaxing as a quiet paddle on a small lake. David and I slowly paddled all along the shore line and were rewarded by two trumpter swans flying right over our heads. We let the evening enfold us and wash away the stress of the highway.
Snag Lake, YT
The next morning we were elated to see signs for the Alaska border crossing. When we got there we were the 7th vehicle in a slow moving line for customs, but that was OK. The guy in front of us, driving the old school bus, shared his humor with us.... and we couldn't help but smile.
Alaska again..... and this time we were ready for her, or we thought we were.
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